I’m sick of spending every evening alone on social media in my bed. I’m sick of eating every meal alone. I want a partner! But when his dad sat down next to me in tears to describe how happy he was to have me as part of the family, I started freaking out a bit. … Keep ReadingI’m So F***ed Right Now
Too deep inside it to see how crazy it was…until I wrote about it. … Keep ReadingEpisode 10 Behind the Scenes
How I managed to break two boards in under 48 hours, the nasty hold downs and the lessons I took away from it. … Keep ReadingOverconfidence in the Water
Dear Stress,
I forced you out of my life about 19 months ago when I stuck my middle finger up, watching you fade in my rear view mirror as I drove south on Mexico 200. … Keep ReadingDear Stress, I Miss You
Love made me blind … Keep ReadingEpisode 9 Behind the Scenes
Being in San Diego has been a bit trippy
Being outside of all of this for a while has given me a fresh perspective.
I walked through the open air market in Ocean Beach last week, literally speechless. Everyone has their identity. They pay good money to maintain their identity. Surfer, punk, yoga girl, yuppy housewife, everyone has a look. Their look says a lot about what they are into, and that is the point. … Keep ReadingCulture Shock in San Diego
When everything goes right, you have to hold it loosely … Keep ReadingEpisode 8 Behind the Scenes
I wasn’t really scared. There was no time to be scared. I was vigilant … Keep ReadingWhat about a special man?
The last binge … Keep ReadingEpisode 7 Behind the Scenes
To those men out there who feel the need to insult me, my surfing, and the places I enjoy surfing, I’m sorry.
I’m sorry that our society has taught you that you always need to be superior to women especially in acts of bravery and physicality. You were lied to. Seeing a woman capable of expressing her internal strength reminds you that you’ve been running from your own power. And that is terrifying to you.
And now you men are as scared as we women are mad. You are scared that you might have to be everything you were created to be. You are terrified that if women no longer buy the lie of smallness then you will be surpassed. You will have to open your eyes, get off the couch, shut off the TV, stop complaining and actually wake up.
We are rising up. We are angry. We will not be silenced. And we will keep pulling into closeout barrels even if it makes you uncomfortable. … Keep ReadingHow small do you want me to be?
Surfing Hawaii for the first time, his proposal and more … Keep ReadingEpisode 6 Behind the Scenes
I think my body is like a scared little feral kitten. She knows she is fierce. She depends on my for her basic needs. But I keep screwing with her. Sometimes I scream at her, sometimes I pinch her, sometimes I refuse to feed her, sometimes I force her to keep eating when she’s already stuffed. … Keep ReadingI’m Having a Fat Day
What was the contest I won? What was like to finally believe I was pretty? … Keep ReadingEpisode 5 Behind the Scenes
While the attention is wonderful when I’m successful in the waves, it is equally humiliating when I mess up. No one posts pictures of my wipeouts, thank god, but everyone sees them. … Keep ReadingBeing Watched
When I found out the rules could be broken and nothing bad was going to happen! … Keep ReadingEpisode 4 Behind the Scenes
There is a swell coming. My body is wracked with anxiety. Because I know there will be several days within my skill level, but my skill level is now enough that those days could kill me … Keep ReadingWhen the Sea Rests Anxiety Builds
Let’s Talk About Sex
Puerto is one of the best places on earth to watch high level surfing. But when you are not a high level surfer, taking wipeout after wipeout, Puerto is also humiliating. … Keep ReadingPuerto Escondido is a Show
I have a heart condition. It prevents me from surfing quite a bit. I hate it, I hate it so much … Keep ReadingSCREW IT!
My history with 12 step meetings and what it was like growing up in the church … Keep ReadingEpisode 2 Behind the Scenes Video Commentary
Drama, Danger and a whole lot of Lessons. Read it all here. … Keep ReadingCurrent Stories
Episode By Episode Behind the Scenes Commentary … Keep Reading100 Days in Mexico – Behind the Scenes
How do you train? What’s your worst wipeout? Are you seeing anyone right now? And lots more … Keep ReadingQuestions I’m Occasionally Asked
My Most Personal Content … Keep ReadingConfessions
I’ve developed a few rules for myself to be sure I don’t get in over my head … Keep ReadingHow do you decide if it’s too big to go out? (Video)
I wasn’t really scared. There was no time to be scared. I was vigilant … Keep ReadingWhat’s the scariest situation you’ve experienced in the water?
What was it like that first day I surfed Waimea Bay? How big was it really? Did I actually catch any waves? And lots more. … Keep ReadingEpisode 1 Behind the Scenes Video Commentary
The song that’s on repeat right now … Keep ReadingWhat is Your Relationship Status?
The number of times I’ve been dropped in on by some dude just because I’m a woman … Keep ReadingAre Women Surfers at a Disadvantage?
Here is what a typical day of training looks like for me … Keep ReadingWhat’s Your Training Routine?
In Mexico, there is a real respect for older people. Because of this, it is not considered rude to ask a woman her age. Nor is it considered rude to guess a woman’s age significantly older than she is … Keep ReadingI’ve Grown, but I’ve Also Aged
While my eating disorder no longer plagues me with health issues I continue to be the cause of a lot of harm to my health due to another unhealthy addiction. … Keep ReadingI’m Having Some Health Issues
I had done it all for the glory of the photo. I wooed her, I harnessed her energy, I made her want to give her power freely to me. I spent all my energy. All so I could kiss and tell on Instagram. … Keep ReadingIt’s Like Sex with the Ocean
I watched three boys surf with two boards, taking turns. The boards themselves shared one set of fins…I kept thinking of the bag full of fins that I “needed” back in the van. … Keep ReadingThree Boys, Two Boards, One Set of Fins
We discovered a completely hidden perfect a frame peak, totally unlisted in any guide book. In this post, and this post ONLY I will share the location … Keep ReadingEpisode 20 Behind the Scenes: The Secret Surf Spot
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