Episode 44: Bali Baby

Bali

Day 472

The water was perfectly warm, the sun perfectly hot. The plummeting cliff line of the Bukit Peninsula of Bali contrasted with the turquoise water to create a breathtaking arena for surfing. I hadn’t needed to set an alarm to get up for an appointment in over a year. I felt strong and filled with energy. I had just left my friend’s house, were the two of us had shared a healthy breakfast and laughed our heads off about boys and who knows what. The waves were well over head, providing lots of opportunities for barrels and hacking turns. The crowd was light, the wind was perfect. I couldn’t think of a single thing more to ask for.

I paddled for and missed five waves in a row. I was frustrated. I knew why I was missing them, too, I wasn’t in the right spot to catch the wave, but moving to the correct spot meant making a drop where the wave was broke much faster and much heavier than my skill level allowed. I just wasn’t there.

I got impatient. I moved deeper, toward the faster part of the wave. A set came. I didn’t think I could make it, but I was too impatient to care. I knew before I took the last paddle that I was too deep, but I had seen other people make steeper drops. If they can, then I can!

I couldn’t. The lip picked me up and tossed me like I was weightless. I was used to this. The time underwater was extensive. I was used to this. I went limp and waited for the beating to end. I came up gasping. I was used to this. Another wave poised to break over me. I was used to this, too. And I was used to the rest of the pattern, as the next several waves washed me hundreds of yards from where I wanted to be, leaving me breathless and exhausted, with a long paddle back to the spot where I had started. It’s like running the 0.2 miles at the end of a 26.2 mile marathon. You’ve survived so much, but the hardest part is finishing it out.

The Voice told me I should be able to do it. if I couldn’t, then I was still a crappy surfer. The Body told me I wasn’t ready.

Ask any surfer–it is such a mental sport. It is 100% mental. It is also 100% physical. When the conditions are demanding, you have to be in perfect shape, have technical ability and have your mind in the game. A bad session can make you question everything.

Get out of your head Melanie. If you expect to fail, you will. Commit commit commit. I chose a wave that looked almost makeable. I tried to commit, but The Body rebelled. The Body lifted its own chest against the strength of my will, causing my weight to shift backward ever so slightly, but just enough to allow the wave to pass me by, ensuring I would not endure the same painful fate as last time.

At some point, The Body knows best. But I was starving for success.

Another set came. This time I was pissed enough at myself that I swore that I would go, no matter what, and I did. I took back control of my unruly body! I make it to my feet, only to drop too low and make too slow of a turn, and the wave exploded behind me like a bomb, shooting me forward. More time under water, more waves on the head, more paddle battle.

Just as I was about to break free and make it back to the take-off zone, another set rolled through. I couldn’t quite make it over. I knew I was going to get smashed before it happened. That’s it, screw it! I turned my board to face the beach and let the white water wash me in, completely defeated, too mentally and physically spent to try again. The entire ordeal took about forty-five minutes. I fucking hate surfing!

I was crying as my feet hit the sand, the inner dialog talking its familiar shit.

You suck at surfing. You are not a surfer. Give it up! Just admit you suck and stick to small waves. Find a nice man and have babies. Go back to the guy with the beachfront mansion! The Voice harangued.

“But I just need to practise more. I’m still learning!” I fought back.

How are you going to practice more when your lack of fitness makes you give up after forty-five minutes? You big fatty! Look at those other surfers out there, taking sets on the head. See how lean they are? It’s your fitness level that is lacking. You need to run more. You need to lose at least ten pounds even to be safe out there. And now you are going to be done after just forty-five minutes? What kind of a workout is that? I bet you are just going to go home and eat food now, and get even fatter!

The problem is your diet. The Voice was on a role. You eat way too much and you know it! You need to lean in to the hunger. You need to sit with the discomfort of being hungry. Now that awful voice was starting to sound like Yoga Melanie, and I was getting so confused.

“NO, please no! I can’t handle going back to being hungry. Please, please, there has to be another way. I’m still recovering from my eating disorder. I have to trust my hunger signals. I choose to believe my Body knows what’s best for my body!”

Oh, poor baby. The Voice knew it was losing, so it tried a different approach. You are just so confused because you don’t know how to be uncomfortable. Remember all those teachings you’ve read about being present, about not trying to avoid uncomfortable feelings? Hunger is just one of them. You are strong enough. You can do it!

“Well, maybe I could try the keto diet for a week. I’ll be tired, but I could just push through. Or, wait a sec, how about the fruitarian diet? Yes, that one gave me a ton of energy!” I was starting to see The Voice’s point.

Yes, yes, that’s right! Controllllll, take back control! The Voice loved my new train of thought.

“No! Snap out of it! Every diet always works, I always lose weight, and then I always gain it back, plus more. NO!”

I walked back from the beach, crying, wondering why I sucked at surfing, why I was so fat, why I couldn’t just eat less and why I even cared about any of this. I had been through this enough times to know that I should go to the behaviors that I knew were safe, even though I don’t want to: a healthy, balanced meal, admitting to a friend how much I was in my head about body image, and then to my journal to write about it.

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*some names have been changed to protect privacy

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