Day 345
My first paddle out at Sunset Beach took finding my bravest self. I had arrived in Hawaii a couple of weeks earlier, and had been surfing a few of the more mellow breaks on the North Shore. But I knew before I arrived that Sunset was my goal. It was rumored to be the Queen of the Sea. Known as one of the world’s premier big wave spots, it was famous for being moody. Ask any surfer, and they will tell you that waves are like women: they are strong and powerful yet deceptively beautiful and friendly. Show disrespect and you will be given a lesson. Get to know them, harmonize your energy with theirs, and you will be given a glimpse of heaven. From a distance, they smile at you like an old friend. But they slap you with all their might if you draw too close without paying the proper respect.
If waves are women, then Sunset is the alpha female. She is one of the most beautiful beaches on earth. If you’ve ever seen a sunset at Sunset Beach, you know how she got her name. The water is a spectrum of greens and turquoises and blues. From the beach, the waves themselves appear to be fairly mellow and small–because the break is over a quarter of a mile from the shore. But as you paddle closer, they seem to triple in both size and intensity. The peak is shifty, so you might think you are in the right spot and out of harm’s way. But, out of nowhere, a monster set wave will come barreling down on you, sending you to the depths. The minute you think you have her pinned down, she pounces and shows you who holds the ultimate power. And what power she has! Her waves break with a force that will send even the most experienced surfer into a panic if caught in the wrong spot. But, when given proper respect and coaxing, she will give you a chance for a massive drop, a barrel so large you could drive a truck through it and another hundred yards of carvable wall, more than enough for a field day.
Just as I had done in Puerto Escondido, I spent a few days photographing the waves at Sunset Beach and talking to the locals to get some tips about how to paddle out and what type of board to ride. Then I chose a small-to-medium day to paddle out. And just like my first paddle out at Puerto, it took an hour to get two waves and both waves felt like victory.
Sitting in the line up on my first paddle out, I sought two anchor points on the beach to triangulate my position in the water. I spotted a satellite dish on a mountain as the point to my left, and I scanned the beach to the right for my second anchor point. My heart caught in my throat as memories came flooding in. The scene in front of me was the setting of a familiar photo that I had looked at over a hundred times.
__
T Minus 5 years
It was the most beautiful thing I had ever beheld. He was dressed in pure white, his eyes the same color as the ocean that framed him. His eyes were wet, as were mine. Individually, we scooped sand from the beach and poured it into a small vial, symbolising how our intermingled, inseparable love. I completely lost control of my tears when the minister produced a ukulele and sang “Somewhere Over the Rainbow”. We held hands, gazing into each other’s eyes. Kurt held my hands so tightly that it hurt–in the best possible way.
After the ceremony, he scooped me up as we splashed and twirled in the shore break at Sunset Beach on the North Shore of Oahu. We entirely soaked our white wedding day clothing. The sunset blazed behind us, igniting the sky with a million shades of blue and red and yellow. We kissed and held each other and gazed out over the breaking waves. I never thought I could be so happy.
I’m not sure what it is about standing before your friends and family and promising God and everyone else that you will love another human being until the end of your life, but that bond is not easily broken.
Two other points about that day stand out to me.
First, we had chosen Sunset Beach for the ceremony, despite its being on the opposite side of the island from our hotel. We chose it because we were surfers, and although neither of had ever surfed there nor planned to surf there, we had immense respect for the break.
The other, more practical memory was that of being cold, extremely cold. When we finished our romping around in the water, after the last photo was snapped, I couldn’t get out of my wet wedding dress and into some warm dry clothes fast enough. In fact, the entire two weeks we spent on Oahu were uncomfortably cold. I never entered the water without a wetsuit and would later tell my friends that I would never want to live in Hawaii. The waves were too challenging and the water too cold.
__
Day 415
I surfed Sunset nearly every day for three and half months. I would laugh when neoprene-clad surfers asked me, “Aren’t you cold?”.
“No way,” I’d respond with a grin, “I have body fat!”
Closure
Day 421
Just coming in from a long, fun session, I returned to my car, dried my hand and grabbed my phone. When I opened it up, my heart stopped. Anxiety gripped my chest. There was a text message notification. Next to it, a picture identified the contact. I only had one contact stored with a picture. It was a picture of the very beach I was standing on. A very happy man stared into the eyes of a very skinny girl, both dressed in white. The message read,
“It warms my heart to know you are happy and healthy and living your dreams. Kurt.”
Seeing his text that winter morning brought both hope and terror.
A few days earlier, Kurt’s cousin, with whom I still had a good relationship, had texted me saying that he had seen a photo of me on a pretty big wave at Sunset Beach. The photo was making the rounds in the social media world. Undoubtedly, Kurt had heard I was in Hawaii and charging the big stuff. Kurt had seen me.
I drafted a response and then deleted it. I drafted three more over the course of the next twenty-four hours, deleting each of them as well. Eventually, I texted my former Al-Anon sponsor. She told me to ignore the text. But I couldn’t.
The next night, Kurt called me. We talked for over two hours. I sat on my balcony, clad in a tank top in the cool night air, overlooking the world-famous Velzyland surf break. It was the very same beach on which Kurt had proposed to me five years earlier. I had hit bottom–on my bedroom floor–two years ago, and he was just hitting his. He had been thrown out of several recovery communities, broken up with his relapsing girlfriend, surrendered the lease on his apartment, lost several work contracts and was living between friends’ couches, his truck, detox facilities and grubby hotel rooms. He sent me a photo of himself. He had lost so much weight. He was no longer the big, strong man I once knew.
I had put on so much weight. I sent him a photo, too. I was no longer the scared little girl he once knew.
We shared memories and laughed about the good times we’d had together. We apologized for the individual parts we played in the demise of our marriage. At one point, I started to cry but forced myself to stop. We admitted that we both still loved each other deeply. That, even though our lives had changed too much to go back, we would continue to love each other “until death do us part”. Like alcohol disinfecting a wound, the entire conversation hurt in the most healing kind of way. I could see clearly that I had spent the last two years gaining strength, courage and wisdom, while he had spent the last two years digging himself deeper toward his bottom. Now, four years and an ocean of distance separated us. I had grown bigger and he had grown smaller.
I cried myself to sleep that night. Yet, I was somehow just as happy as the day it all started, just one block away.
__________
*some names have been changed to protect privacy
__________
Want to receive the Audio Version of “100 Day’s in Mexico”? Subscribe with your email for free audio episodes emailed to you weekly.
Oh Yeah! Send Me the Episodes!
If you liked this episode a Behind the Scenes Video Commentary is available for Insiders only.
While you wait for more episodes from “100 Days in Mexico” you can read a lot more content in the VIP section: Become an Insider.
If You Liked it, Share it
English
https://afsgsdsdbfdshdfhdfncvngcjgfjghvghcgvv.com
https://afsgsdsdbfdshdfhdfncvngcjgfjghvghcgvv.com
Hey there, You have done a great job. I will
certainly digg it and personally suggest to my friends.
I’m sure they will be benefited from this web site.
Way cool! Some extremely valid points! I appreciate you writing this write-up and also
the rest of the website is also really good.
When someone writes an article he/she retains the plan of a user in his/her brain that how a user can know it.
Therefore that’s why this post is amazing. Thanks!
Look into my blog … download 918kiss plus ios
Thank you a bunch for sharing this with all people you really recognise what you’re speaking approximately!
Bookmarked. Kindly also discuss with my
website =). We can have a link alternate agreement among us
my site :: Game ok388
What’s up to every body, it’s my first pay a visit of this website; this web site contains awesome and in fact excellent material
in support of visitors.
My homepage … download sky777 android
I pay a quick visit every day a few sites and blogs to read
posts, except this blog provides quality based writing.
My website: king855 11
Sweet blog! I found it while searching on Yahoo News. Do you have any tips
on how to get listed in Yahoo News? I’ve been trying for a while but I never seem
to get there! Many thanks
Also visit my site agen wm casino
Thanks for sharing your thoughts about epicwin. Regards
my blog Epicwin ios download
I am truly pleased to glance at this web site posts which
contains lots of helpful information, thanks for providing such data.
Pretty component of content. I simply stumbled upon your web site and in accession capital to assert that I get in fact loved account your weblog posts.
Anyway I’ll be subscribing for your augment and even I fulfillment you get admission to constantly quickly.
My site: BreezeTech
Thanks a lot for providing individuals with remarkably terrific chance to read in detail from this blog.
It’s always very pleasant and as well , jam-packed with a lot of fun for me and my
office fellow workers to search the blog a minimum of three times in one week
to see the fresh guidance you will have. And indeed,
I’m also at all times pleased with all the amazing tricks you give.
Certain 1 ideas in this posting are ultimately the simplest we’ve ever had.
My web page: Tri-Bol Testo
There’s certainly a lot to learn about this subject. I like all the
points you made.
I constantly emailed this website post page
to all my associates, because if like to read it then my
links will too.
I’m pretty pleased to discover this page. I wanted to thank you for ones time for this particularly fantastic read!!
I definitely really liked every bit of it and i also have you book-marked to see
new stuff in your site.
Thank you for the auspicious writeup. It in fact was a amusement account
it. Look advanced to more added agreeable from you!
However, how can we communicate?
We are a group of volunteers and opening a new scheme in our community.
Your website provided us with helpful info to work on. You’ve done an impressive task and our whole community shall be grateful to you.
It’s impressive that you are getting thoughts from this paragraph as well as from our
discussion made at this time.
Have you ever thought about creating an e-book or guest authoring on other sites?
I have a blog based upon on the same subjects you discuss and
would really like to have you share some stories/information. I know my subscribers would value your
work. If you’re even remotely interested, feel free to shoot me
an e-mail.
http://buytadalafshop.com/ – cialis no prescription
Viagra Pas Cher Paris
http://buysildenshop.com/ – Viagra
What’s up, yeah this paragraph is truly fastidious and I have learned lot of things from it concerning blogging.
thanks.
Hello to every body, it’s my first visit of this web site;
this webpage consists of amazing and genuinely excellent information for visitors.
quest bars http://bitly.com/3jZgEA2 quest bars
It’s actually a great and useful piece of information. I’m glad that you just shared this useful information with us.
Please keep us informed like this. Thanks for sharing.
scoliosis surgery https://coub.com/stories/962966-scoliosis-surgery scoliosis surgery
I’ve been exploring for a little for any high-quality articles or weblog posts on this kind of house
. Exploring in Yahoo I at last stumbled upon this website.
Reading this info So i am happy to convey that I’ve a
very excellent uncanny feeling I came upon exactly what I needed.
I such a lot no doubt will make sure to do not forget this web site and provides it a glance on a constant basis.
scoliosis surgery https://0401mm.tumblr.com/ scoliosis surgery
Somebody essentially lend a hand to make severely posts I’d
state. That is the first time I frequented your web page and thus far?
I surprised with the analysis you made to create this particular post incredible.
Fantastic process! ps4 https://bitly.com/3nkdKIi ps4 games
Where To Buy Lasix Water Pill
Where To Buy Nexium
Excellent post. I was checking continuously this blog and
I’m impressed! Extremely helpful info specifically the last part :
) I care for such information much. I was seeking this certain info for a long time.
Thank you and good luck.
WOW just what I was searching for. Came here by searching for on
Fantastic do the job! This can be the sort of information that are imagined to be shared all-around the world wide web. Disgrace on Google for now not positioning this submit bigger! Come on above and converse in excess of with my Website . Thanks =)
Ordina Cialis Online
Hi, all the time i used to check weblog posts here in the early hours in the dawn, as i love to gain knowledge of more
and more.
916092 518905I believe this internet site contains some very amazing details for everyone : D. 974698
Side Effects Of Cephalexin
Fabulous, what a web site it is! This blog provides helpful facts to us, keep it
up.
It’s actually a cool and useful piece of info. I am happy that you shared this helpful info with us. Please stay us up to date like this. Thank you for sharing.
Wow, great blog article. Want more.
880204 448929As I site owner I believe the articles here is rattling superb , thanks for your efforts. 79621
Levitra Cher
Good day I am so glad I found your weblog, I really found
you by mistake, while I was looking on Askjeeve for something else, Anyhow I am here now and would just like to say kudos for a marvelous post and a all round exciting blog (I also love the
theme/design), I don’t have time to browse it all
at the minute but I have bookmarked it and also
added your RSS feeds, so when I have time I will be back to read a
great deal more, Please do keep up the great work.
975888 962222It is difficult to get knowledgeable individuals within this subject, nonetheless, you appear to be guess what happens you are dealing with! Thanks 898764
Axaqam ordering hydroxychloroquine online
Muchos Gracias for your blog article.Thanks Again. Cool.
Valuable info. Fortunate me I discovered your website by accident, and I am stunned why this twist of fate did not happened earlier! I bookmarked it.
Pretty nice post. I just stumbled upon your weblog and wished to say that
I’ve really enjoyed browsing your blog posts.
After all I’ll be subscribing to your rss feed and I hope you write again soon!
What’s up i am kavin, its my first time to commenting anywhere, when i read this paragraph i thought i could also create comment due to this brilliant post.
Have you ever considered writing an ebook or guest authoring on other websites?
I have a blog centered on the same subjects you discuss and would love
to have you share some stories/information. I know my audience would appreciate your work.
If you are even remotely interested, feel free to send me an e-mail.
I am really glad to read this website posts
which carries tons of valuable data, thanks for providing such data.
I know this if off topic but I’m looking into starting my own blog and was wondering what all is needed
to get setup? I’m assuming having a blog like yours would cost a pretty penny?
I’m not very web savvy so I’m not 100% sure. Any recommendations or advice would be greatly
appreciated. Thank you
At this time I am going to do my breakfast, after having my breakfast coming yet again to read additional news.
I am just actually happy to glance at this Web-site posts which includes a lot of beneficial data, a lot of thanks for furnishing this sort of statistics.
Keep on working, great job!
Great article.
This text is invaluable. When can I find out more?
Good day! This is kind of off topic but I need some help from
an established blog. Is it hard to set up your own blog?
I’m not very techincal but I can figure things out pretty quick.
I’m thinking about creating my own but I’m not sure where to begin. Do
you have any points or suggestions? With thanks
Hey! Do you know if they make any plugins to safeguard against hackers?
I’m kinda paranoid about losing everything I’ve worked hard on. Any recommendations?
Good write-up. I certainly love this site. Keep it up!
Hi there! I just wanted to ask if you ever have any trouble with hackers?
My last blog (wordpress) was hacked and I ended up losing many months of hard
work due to no back up. Do you have any solutions to prevent hackers?
bookmarked!!, I like your website!
What’s up, just wanted to mention, I enjoyed this blog post.
It was inspiring. Keep on posting!
Thanks very interesting blog!
Hey There. I discovered your weblog the usage of msn. That is a
really smartly written article. I’ll be sure to bookmark it and return to learn extra of your useful information. Thank you for the post.
I will definitely return.
This is a very good tip particularly to those fresh to the
blogosphere. Simple but very accurate information… Thanks for
sharing this one. A must read post!
This is a very very well researched post! iphone ringtone format
Hey there, You’ve done a fantastic job. I’ll certainly digg it and personally suggest to my friends.
I am sure they will be benefited from this website.
İnsan haklarını gözeterek sağlık için savunuculuk yapmak, Kamu (Denizli Valiliği,
İl Özel İdaresi, İl Sağlık Md, İl Halk Sağlığı Md.
İl Milli Eğitim Md.
After going over a number of the blog articles on your site, I really appreciate your way of writing a blog.
I added it to my bookmark webpage list and will be checking back
in the near future. Take a look at my web site too and let me know how
you feel.
I think this is one of the most significant info for me.
And i am happy reading your article. However wanna commentary on some normal issues, The
web site taste is great, the articles is actually great :
D. Just right activity, cheers
What’s up to all, for the reason that I am actually eager of reading this blog’s post to be updated regularly.
It consists of fastidious information.
Howdy just wanted to give you a brief heads up and let you know a few of the images aren’t loading properly.
I’m not sure why but I think its a linking issue. I’ve tried it
in two different internet browsers and both show the same results.
My website; 2022
Aw, this was a very nice post. Finding the time and actual effort to produce a great article… but
what can I say… I hesitate a lot and don’t manage
to get anything done.
Hello, i believe that i saw you visited my weblog so i got here
to go back the prefer?.I’m trying to find things to improve my site!I assume its good enough to use some of your ideas!!
Hi there, I read your new stuff daily. Your writing
style is awesome, keep up the good work!
Feel free to surf to my webpage tracfone special coupon 2022
There is also a possibility of weight gain as a side effect, according to the Cleveland Clinic best place to buy finasteride A case was defined as a patient with an epidemiologic risk factor who had body temperature of 38 C and or respiratory system symptoms which cannot be fully explained by any other condition or disease based on WHO approach
Dear immortals, I need some wow gold inspiration to create.
UgQDdJoHushyVk
qNsALaUpKlXBF
vHMjAxpkbSQfiNq
MlsxBNqfiAh
“Great job!”
“Well done!”
“Keep it up!”
“You’re amazing!”
“Fantastic!”
“Great job!”
“Excellent!”
“Impressive!”
vzdAPJqUaKuI
It means so much to receive positive feedback and know that my content is appreciated. I strive to bring new ideas and insights to my readers.
RtyoFxJh
ZOcTHaFn
kUsqiCptZNYha
Its like you read my mind! You appear to know a lot about this, like you wrote the book in it or something. I think that you could do with some pics to drive the message home a little bit, but instead of that, this is fantastic blog. An excellent read. I will certainly be back.
vBLTjfqhgA
FIjdgpULf
JzUFgHBZ
siLcGlZTqwX
Bwer Pipes: Your Reliable Partner for Irrigation Success in Iraq: Trust Bwer Pipes to provide you with dependable irrigation solutions tailored to the unique challenges of Iraqi farming. Our advanced sprinkler technology and durable pipes ensure optimal water distribution, resulting in healthier crops and higher yields. Explore Bwer Pipes
LBvEspoRWVCt
mOsLDkux