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There are some surfer I know who want to be doing what I’m doing. They want to surf in warm water everyday. They want to work only part time. They want to live a simpler life. They want to surf heavy waves.
Most of those surfers also have everything it takes to be able to do that. They have just as much health, money, athleticism and talent as I have. Actually probably more.
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I just don’t understand. Why is everyone so competitive here (back in San Diego)? I’m definitely having some culture shock being back in the states.
For starters I’ve never been dropped in on more any place else in the world. My last session was a very small and mushy day so I was able to take incredibly late drops. The guys in the water just assumed I’d fall and went on me every time. Another guy said I acted like my shit doesn’t stink because I hurdel myself in an unsafe manner into massive waves down in Mex. The only reason he said it is because he actually surfs better than me but doesn’t have the balls to do what I’m doing. Someone else said “everyone” has been talking since I got back about how I’ve been acting like I’m better than everyone else….I’ve been back two days and I haven’t even seen this person, nor anyone else he knows.
To those men out there who feel the need to insult me, my surfing, and the places I enjoy surfing, I’m sorry.
I’m sorry that our society has taught you that you always need to be superior to women especially in acts of bravery and physicality. You were lied to. And you’ve spent your entire life trying to be something you don’t have to be. You have the physical ability to do what I’m doing, actually you surf far better than me, and you know it. But seeing a woman capable of expressing her internal strength reminds you that you’ve been running from your own power. And that is terrifying to you.
You see in my surfing that you are the only thing holding yourself back.
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We are rising up. We are angry. We will not be silenced. And we will keep pulling into ten foot closeout barrels even if it makes you uncomfortable.
And to those real men in my life (actually the vast majority of you) who have admitted the areas where I am ahead of you and applauded me from the sidelines, while also with great love, have coached me along in the areas where you are ahead of me- thank you my brothers! And may we stay forever open to what we can learn from each other.
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