12.17.18
Carl had a hunched over posture
He had long arms that hung in front of his body off of his slumping shoulders. He wore tivas, dark green cargo pants and an oversized black t-shirt with white salt stain. He was bald on the top of his head except for one patch that sprung up from his forehead about 5 inches long. You couldn’t see his hair much because he normally wore his floppy canvas baseball cap, the kind with the strap that pulled tight in the back as opposed to a snap back or a fitted cap.
Surfer Style
His sunglass were perhaps his most endearing adornment. He wore the kind of oversized square glasses they give to eye surgery patients with panels on the sides for added protection. He had two identical pairs, you know, just in case. With is bright white skin, hanging fat rolls and interesting wardrobe, Carl looked nothing like a surfer, except for the fact that he often forgot to wipe the zinc oxide off his skin and would go around white-faced for hours.
“What is that?” Jock exclaimed when we first saw him standing next to his car. Carl’s car was missing all the plastic molded panels that cover the back end of his car and instead had only a bare bumper bar sticking out. The top of his car bore a ten foot longboard with a massive wooden center fin that looked like it was a copy from 1959.
Carl on his Longboard
I left Puerto Escondido to find some smaller waves, more suited to my skill level, without crowds. I purchased a van I could camp inside of and found a friend of a friend to come with me. My new friend, Jock would help me with gas and would also provide added security for me. Jock and I met up with my ex-boyfriend, Salome, around day two or three of our adventure. Salome said he would bring us to some uncrowded waves but first we needed to swing by and pick up his client who he was taking on a surf tour for the next few weeks. The client was Carl.
The four of us quickly became a family, camping in obscure locations, cooking meals over the fire, and surfing together.
My jaw dropped when I saw Carl paddle for his first wave on his massive log. The wave was quite big and coming in fast. It stood up quickly, I don’t know that I would have made an equal drop with my shortboard. Carl hopped up on his knees and began to knee paddle into the well overhead wave. He grabbed his rail and rode down the face of the wave on hands and knees, I have no idea how he didn’t get pitched. The wave became a bit softer and Carl maneuvered himself into a seat on top of the board, legs stretched straight out infront of him. He gave a little wave as he “surfed” by me while I paddled back out. Unbelievable.
12 Stitches
The second wave was an even better show. I was sitting ten yards outside Carl, That means Carl was closest to the peak. A huge wave came through and began to jack up in size. I feared I might be too far inside to catch it and it might smash me so I paddled toward the wave in order to get over it before it broke on my head. Carl was even more in a dangerous position but instead of getting to safety, he turned around, hopped to his knees and started paddling to catch the wave. Salome started shouting “No Carl, NO!” but unfortunately No and Go sound a lot alike when there are waves crashing all around you.
In this particular spot, there was a huge rock sticking out of the water. In order to catch the wave you have to sit right behind the rock and be sure you don’t fall so you avoid surfing into the rock and instead go around it. I had let a lot of waves go by earlier that morning because they were breaking too near the rock and I just didn’t trust myself to be able to make the drop every time with 100% confidence and it just wasn’t worth the risk. Carl was too far inside of the rock.
The wave picked him up and tossed him and his board forward with the force of a car collision. The board went nose first into the water then shot up again like a cork, up and over the rock. Carl remained underwater, being dragged by his leash and pummeled by the white water directly over the jagged rock. After 12 stitched in his foot, Carl was back in the water surfing the next day.
They Made Fun of Him
More than once I heard guys hassling carl in the water. I even saw him get run over by another surfer even when he clearly had the wave first. It wasn’t right. Then one day I sat on the beach while I watched Carl surf heavy overhead closeout waves. He was getting more waves than anyone, fearless! The beach spectators started to take notice. After a few minutes, Carl started paddling for his biggest wave yet. Someone shouted, “There he goes!” The entire beach held their breath! He nailed it as we all erupted in cheers.
Carl at Puerto
Puerto Escondido is about the heaviest wave on the planet. It is definitely not a longboard wave. When I saw carl dropping into a double overhead wave getting pitted on hands and knees, Carl had my respect!
I’d like to be more like Carl!
I am going to be telling another story about the character of Carl in next week’s blog. Stay tuned.
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