The wave was a tricky little right handed point break…
The swell hit a little off the point and broke over barrelly submerged boulders. The take off zone was directly above the rocks where the water boiled up. As is typically the case with a point break, you had to make the drop facing directly into the cliff in front. To make it harder the wave broke over itself making a take off on the shoulder impossible, you had to take the drop right under the lip.
I paddled for and missed about five waves before I figured it out. Each time with a little more confidence, a little more trust in my ability, my equipment and the general behavior of the wave. Finally I nailed one and the reward of a long, cavable wall was well worth the effort.
I had two more surfs at the same location that day.
With glassy conditions and just a few of us in the water, we were having a field day. I returned to the same spot the next day with high expectations and I was not disappointed. After two more session, I felt like me, the wave and my board were unstoppable together. I noticed a couple of advances in my technique and was starting to feel really proud of myself.
The waves beckoned me for a third session that day and I eagerly heeded their call. But this time it was more crowded, with some surfers who could really rip. As is the case with point breaks, the better surfers force the weaker surfers to sit deeper and deeper if they ever want to get a wave.
I waited on the inside section for several minutes, hoping someone would fall or a wave would swing wide. But I lost patience after seeing surfer after surfer getting excellent waves at the peak.
“Screw it,” I thought “I can take those drops!”
So I paddled to the peak and got in line. I waited my turn and when I was up a decent set came my way. It was going to be a late take off, I could tell, but I wanted to see what would happen.
“I haven’t fallen in two days, how do I know my limits if I don’t bump up against them?” I thought to myself.
So I put my head down and paddled. I was pretty sure I wasn’t going to make it. But I surprised myself when I nailed the drop. But I had been so focused on sticking the drop that I had forgotten to look down the line. The wave outran me before I had a chance to make my bottom turn. I laughed as I battled the rest of the set paddling back to the line up.
“You got this! Excellent job on the last one, note your mistake and fix it on the next one!” I applaud myself
It wasn’t long before my turn came back up. And this time I was going no matter what. But I knew before I paddled I was likely way too late to make it. I went anyway. I knew in the instant before I leaped to my feet that I was too late to make it. But I did it anyway.
I air dropped, and I stuck it…. Well, for a split seconded I stuck it… until my feet, the board, and the water all connected at the same instant and the board snapped in two pieces under me.
Pride goes before a fall.
I was pretty pissed at myself for a while for breaking my new board less than a week after purchasing it and flying it with me from Cali to Mexico. Lesson learned. Move on.
Until the next day, with a different board at a different location. This one the famous heavy beach break in Puerto. I was more patient and a bit more timid. I was being very careful because that day the waves were really heavy. The conditions were not only heavy, they were messy with a lot of close out sets. I hadn’t surf there in weeks, I felt out of my groove with the location. Plus I had learned a valuable lesson not 48 hours earlier about overconfidence.
I waited a while for my first wave. It was a good one, a super clean left which barreled and I got partly covered. Instantly my confidence swelled. The next wave was pretty good too but it wasn’t clean and I couldn’t kick out cleanly. The next four waves of the set were bigger, much bigger.
I could tell I wasn’t going to make it over the next double over head wall that was racing toward me so I opted to try to duckdive my gun. I shoved the pointy nose of my 8’5” board under the lip and hoped for the best. But the force of the wave ripped the board form my hands and tossed it like it weighed nothing over the falls, then the leash dragged me with it.
After some uncomfortable time under the water, my feet found the sand on the bottom and I kicked my way to the top. That’s when I noticed that over half of my board was missing. Not again!
But this time I wasn’t nearly as upset with myself. I had indeed learned my lesson yesterday. And today I had headed my lesson. I had been as cautious as possible. But sometime boards break, it’s the nature of the sport. At least this time it wasn’t my ego that broke it!
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