Episode 46: Back to Mex

100 days in Mexico

Day 613

I sat on the beach, watching a massive swell roll in at Puerto Escondido. It was bigger than I felt comfortable with. At least that is what I thought at first. A few surfers I recognized pulled into barrels so big that a semi truck could fit into them. The longer I watched, the more I wanted to be a part of what was going on in the water. My body became excited, nervous, but the good kind of nervous. After an hour or so, I knew I had to paddle out.

Being who I am, who I have always been, and who I likely will always be, I knew I needed someone on the outside to validate my crazy thinking. Puerto Escondido is known for having the worst paddle out in the world. And if I made it out, I would have to make it back in, which could be deadly if my timing was off.

I texted a friend, someone who surfs big waves and knows my ability level. He said to go. Then I made sure to stop by the lifeguard tower on my way back to my apartment for my board.

“Al agua?” The lifeguard asked me if I was going to paddle out.

“Si, para ver, no para surfear.” I told him I was going to watch from the water, not surf.

“Disfruta, y con suerte tal vez vas agarrar la buena!” The lifeguard, who had watched every one of my waves for the last two months, and every one of my wipeouts, told me to enjoy it and that if I was lucky I would catch a good one.

Game on!

My heart pounded as I raced back up the beach to grab my big wave gun, my extra thick leash and my impact vest. My heart pounded even harder as I applied new wax.

I walked back across the beach, the board under my left arm, the impact vest in my left hand. I was strategic about how I was carrying the board because I knew for sure that just walking across that beach on that day with that board would get my picture published on social media. I carried the board on my side toward the ocean because I didn’t want it to block my whole body for the photographers. I chucked. I knew what I was doing and I found it laughable. But I didn’t care. Even though I love the photos, I wasn’t entering the ocean for the photo today.

Today, I was going surfing for me.

The paddle out was, of course, brutal. I remembered the words of my surf hero (and now acquaintance), Bianca Valenti, as she described surfing Puerto on a massive day.

“The paddle out was intense. I got hammered. At first I was like ‘this is awful I’m wasting so much energy’, but then I thought, ‘no way, this is what I live for!’”

And I reminded myself, “This is what I live for.”

Just being in the water was terrifying. At first, I sat deeper than the other surfers. The danger of sitting with the surfers is that if a bigger set comes through, then you have to be able to paddle over the top before it breaks. If you are not fast enough, you and your ten-foot board get pitched over the ledge of a twenty-five foot waterfall into eight feet of water, and then dragged underwater by your leash for who knows how long.

But the longer I sat and watched from the back, the more I felt beckoned to enter the lineup, which that day consisted entirely of men. A couple of big sets did roll through, and it was both terrifying and thrilling to use every ounce of strength I had gained over the last year and a half to provide for my own survival.

It was possibly one of the best surf sessions of my life. When it was finally time to get out of the water, I caught one of the smallest waves of the day, still huge and terrifying, but comparatively quite small. As I looked over the edge, I saw how steep the drop was going to be and I wanted to pull back. But I knew that this was my only way back to the beach.  Getting a wave and falling was actually safer than trying to paddle in, risking a large set breaking on my back.

So I committed. I took the final two strokes. As I took the drop, my board effortlessly grabbed the face of the wave, sliding to the bottom. My body instinctively made the bottom turn and I rode the wave to its natural end. It was one of the easiest waves I’ve ever ridden.

Although I was totally stoked on my session, I was also upset with myself, in hindsight, for not having ridden one of the big waves. That single small one had done wonders for my confidence. But the conditions had changed, and I was out of time.

The next day was the same story: huge and scary, and I got one wave at the end of the session. Once again, although it was terrifying to commit to it, it was easy to ride, like slicing through butter. Once again, I wanted to kick myself for not being more aggressive.

Watching the waves from the line up was one of the coolest experiences. I could see them from the back side as they broke. I could feel the millions of joules of energy they admitted. Usable, harnessable energy. I could see each surfer, in turn, make the decision to join forces with that energy as he spun his board around and committed to it.

That energy has no off switch. You can feel it from the beach. It hits the sand so hard it shakes the nearby buildings. Just watching the surfers will get you revved up.

As I sat on the beach, deciding if I wanted to paddle out on that first big day, I felt the energy calling me to join it. I felt that same energy from my apartment, when I woke up that morning as my bed shook. I had felt that energy from my San Diego apartment on the day I wanted to throw in the towel, but something told me that hope existed. I felt the energy when I crossed the American-Mexican border for the first time. I felt it when I filed for divorce, when I sold the yoga studio, when I first met Kurt, when I confessed to my Mom about my sexual activity. I felt it when I decided to write my story. And I feel it when I release each episode.

There is a powerful force behind all of this. The force is moving this whole thing forward. Toward what, I don’t know. But I know I want to be a part of it.

The way I see it, I have three choices.

Choice One: I can resist the force. I can fight against the waves. I can try to take control. But the waves cannot be subdued.

Choice Two: I can sit on the beach. I can avoid it altogether. I can stay safe, do as I’m told, remain in my hometown, married to a “nice Christian man” (as my Mom still urges me), lease a  reliable car, earn a steady paycheck. But I will always feel that longing in my bones to enter the waves.

Or, Choice Three: I can surf. I can risk it all. I can trust where I’ve been, looking back and seeing how the universe has prepared me perfectly for this moment. I can take the leap when the opportunity comes. If I fail, I will surrender. I will not fight the power raining down on me. With complete trust, I will let the force do to me what needs to be done. I will learn from it. And I will try again. Knowing that it was not a failure, but a step toward success.

And if I am willing to get back in the spot where the waves are coming, to put myself back into the flow, after enough tries, eventually I will be on the ride of my life.

The energy, and the choice to join the energy, is always good.

The third and smallest day of the swell arrived, and this time I was beyond ready. I was “frothing”, as surfers say. It was still big, just slightly smaller than the previous two days. Without a second’s hesitation, I paddled for the first wave that came my way. The drop looked scary, but this time I knew better. I trusted myself and my board. Together, we nailed it and I packed the best backside barrel of my life. Eight more excellent waves followed, making it my best day of surfing ever.

__________

*some names have been changed to protect privacy

__________

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